Notes - BALSAMIC VINEGAR

Balsamic vinegar has been traditionally produced in Modena and Reggio which are provinces in Italy. It was produced for centuries on a domestic level by each noble family.

History

1046 – King Henry III of Franconai came to Piacenza on his way to Rome. Marquis Boniface of Cannossa, a powerful lord of the realm presented the king with a well aged bottle of balsamic vinegar as a token of respect. The king was so appreciative of his gift that he recognised the Marquis’ supremacy over the other lords who were forced to submit to him.

The success of Balsamic Vinegar began during the Renaissance.

The adjective Balsamic suggests both therapeutic qualities and unusual characteristics. It is a by-product of the wine-making process. The final product is a dark, glossy brown, syrupy sweet and sour flavoured thick liquid.

Types of Balsamic Vinegar:

- Modena

- Reggio

The grapes used in both regions are:

Trebbiano (white) )

Lambrusco (red) ) Blend of all 3

Spergola (red) )

· Balsamic Vinegar from Modena uses grapes from Emilia – Ronagna region. While the traditional version uses grapes grown in the same region.

PRODUCTION

The grapes are picked at the end of autumn when the sugar/acidity ration is the highest. The task is done carefully to prevent damage to the grapes. In fact the task of pressing was traditionally entrusted to children who were lighter and more agile.

The must is then filtered and decanted. The filters consist of sacks made of natural fibers that filter the impurities so that the liquid which remains is clean.

AGAZZOTTI METHOD

The custom of boiling the must to 70% or 80% of the original volume on an open fire in a large uncovered copper cauldron was gradually established. This facilitates evaporation and increases the concentration of sugar. It also shortens the length of aging without altering the nature of the final product.

AGING

After cooling in wooden tubs the must is then transferred into glass containers and after residual lees and gelatinous substances have settled the long aging process begins. This is done in well ventilated, high celinged rooms called ‘acetias’ or vinegar rooms.

COOPERAGE

The barrels and their manufacture is an other essential aspect of the process.

Native species from the woods on the Emilia Plains and the foothills are the most suitable.

- Chestnut

- Cherry

- Mulberry

- Juniper

- Oak Wood

Every stage of the cooperage is still carried out by hand. Choice of barrels depends upon the type of wood used and the aromatic nuances the vinegar – master wishes the vinegar to achieve.

At the beginning of the aging process – softer and more porous woods are used along with larger barrels. A complete set of casks and barrels is called a ‘Batteria’. Transferring of liquid from one barrel to another or topping up with new must is done during October and March.

The aging is a function of the climate of Modena & Reggio. The bung holes of the barrels are covered with a piece of gauze and a river stone (a stone smoothened by the action of river water). As the fumes rising from the vinegar corrode it, it begins to crumble and deposits calcereous substances into the barrel which will offset any excess acidity.

MODENA

The Italian Academy of traditional Balsamic Vinegar decrees that:

- Aging not less than 12 years and addition of other substances is not permitted except bacteria colonies that encourage acetification (A wine vinegar starter is added to Balsamic Vinegar)

- 4.5% acetic acid per 100 gms of vinegar.

- Sold in 10 centilitre bottles with a rectangular base. The bottles themselves are spherical.

LABELS

Atleast 12 years: Ivory Seal

At least 25 years: Gold Seal

- Traditional Balsamic Vinegar also falls under ‘Designation of Protected Origin’.

REGGIO

The consortium of makers of traditional Balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia decrees that:

- Sold in numbered bottles shaped like upside down tulips.

- Wooden barrels used are more elongated.

LABEL - 12 years - Pink

Medium Aged - Silver

Fully Aged (atleast 25) - Gold

DISHES USING Balsamic Vinegar

REGGIO

1. Erbazone: Mixture of spinach and aromatic herbs fried in oil with onions and baked between 2 layers of puff pastry. Eaten with Traditional BV drizzled over it.

2. Gelato Matildico: Dedicated to Countess Matilda.

(1:5) 1 bottle BV: 5 kg cream. Finished icecream is served after drizzling Gold BV on top.

3. Excellent Accompaniment to Darmigiano – Reggio Cheese.

MODENA

1. Served drizzled on boiled meats (Bollito).

2. Served drizzled on various types of pasta.

BALSAMIC VINEGAR – 2

History

It’s not known for sure how and when the balsamic vinegar was born. Maybe a small quantity of cooked grapes’ must (called “SABA”, largely used in the cooking of Modena in the past) forgotten and found again after a long time, having gone through a process of natural acetification, had a sweet and sour taste.

The first written documents date back to the XI century when in a chronicle of the Benedictine Monk, Donizone, something is said about a small barrel of vinegar given as a present by Marquess Bonifacio, Sir of the Canossa castle and Matilda’s father, to the King and future Emperor Enrico II of Franconia in the year 1046.

Most probably already about the year 1228, at the time of Obizzo II, at the court of the ducal family of Este, barrels of vinegar were already preserved.

The diffusion of the balsamic started in the 1598 when the Duke of Este moved from Ferrara to Modena, that became the capital of the dukedom; there are documents of this period that confirm the particular attention that the court had for this product that was usually reserved for the Duke’s family or as a present for very important people.

In the 1700 the balsamic is already known in Europe: achives documents testify that an English merchant and the Count Michele Woronzon, high chancellor of Moscovia, asked the balsamic vinegar to the Duke Francesco III.

The balsamic vinegar, before being used in gastronomy, was used for its medical curative properties. In the treatise of the government of the plaque and of the ways of bewaring of it “written by Ludovico Antonio Muratori, eminent Modenese scholar, he describes some remedies based on the vinegar, useful as antidotes against the terrible disease.

Fortunately the tradition of making balsamic vinegar in the Modenese families was handed on from father to son and it has become the precious product that we still know today.

Balsamic vinegar can only be produced in the regions of Modena and Reggio in Italy. In the Middle Ages, it was used as a disinfectant. It also had a reputation as a miracle cure, good for everything from sore throats to labor pains.

Production

The traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena is obntained from the musts of grapes coming from the vines of Lambrusco, Ancellotta, Trebbiano Sauvignon and Sgavetta, cultivated in the province of Modena in the area situated between the Secchia river valley and the left of the Reno river. It is forbidden the use of musts added with any additive or other substances, the cooking of the must has to be on direct flame in an open pot, and then the extract obtained from the first cooking is subjected to the sugary and acetic fermentation without adding any substance except for the possible grafting of the bacterial colonies known as “Madre” (mother), The acetification is done in barrels of different woods, durmast, chestnut, ash tree, cherry tree and mulberry tree, they are arranged in set of 5/6 casks each. After few years of aging, during winter, (the operation called “Rincalzo” (ridging)) takes place. A small quantity of mellow vinegar is taken out from the smaller barrel and this quantity is replaced by other product taken from the second smaller barrel, and this is repeated for all the barrels until the biggest one, that is filled up by cooked must of the present year. The barrels of vinegar are usually placed in the attic in order to have the right temperature range, hot in summer time and cold in winter time, that favours the ripening, the refining and the aging of the product.

Market

The best balsamic vinegars have nothing else added to them – only the grapes. Lesser ones will add brown sugar or caramel to mimic the sweetness of the better ones. If a company produces a ‘traditional’ balsamic vinegar, they will also produce a less expensive, but high quality vinegar as well. This is the same vinegar with the same heritage but not aged as long. You can have confidence in purchasing these balsamic vinegar. Check you labels!.

There is a lot of confusion about balsamic vinegar. On the grocery shelves you will find $3.00 bottles next to $25.00 bottles (often the $3.00 bottles have fancier labels). But, buyer beware! Not all balsamics are what they appear to be.

True aceto balsamic vinegar comes in 3.4 ounce bottles and sells from $50.00 to $500.00 per bottle. It must be aged a minimum of 10 year. The better balsamics are aged 25 to 50 years (these balsamics are not to be poured, but used by the drop). Find a good-quality medium priced one to use in your cooking.

Latest Trend

Strawberries & Balsamic Vinegar

Place strawberries, balsamic, and powdered sugar in separate bowls.

To serve. Let each guest dip a strawberry into balsamic vinegar and then into powdered sugar.

VERNON COELHO
IHM Mumbai

2009-2010